Oriane Bertone, the confirmation of a young nugget of climbing
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She has the ideal profile for Paris 2024: versatile, talented, with this youthful freshness. From the height of her 17 years, Oriane Bertone appeared ambitious but relaxed, playing mischievously in the blocks, as she likes. Catapulted with great hope of the discipline for the next Olympic Games, the blue nugget did not flinch under expectations for its first European Championships, in a crowded Königsplatz and its audience of 5,000 people who are connoisseurs of climbing, facing the monumental city gates and their architecture inspired by ancient Greece. After a big fight on the wall, she offered herself the bronze in a final dominated unsurprisingly by Slovenian Olympic champion Janja Garnbret.
Highly anticipated on the senior circuit
Known in the middle even before her debut in competition for her outdoor achievements (she became at 12 the youngest to succeed an extreme block rated 8b+), Bertone went on to pick up two youth world titles. Inevitably, the senior circuit was firmly waiting for him. Not easy to manage. She is well up to three times on a World Cup podium but lacks regularity. So this year, in the middle of the season, the backlash was violent.
“I did a kind of mini burn-out in the last two competitions, I suffered, I had trouble finding my place”
“I did a kind of mini burn-out in the last two competitions, I suffered, I had trouble finding my place, says Bertone. I no longer understood why I was there. In the blocks, we clearly know that we are going to get hurt. And there, I no longer wanted to. Hurt yourself to hurt yourself, what’s the point? I no longer wanted to be there, to climb. » The option chosen, a week of rest, proved to be regenerative. “ I mostly had time to think about why I’m climbing. I remembered that it’s for me, because I’ve always loved it. »
Paris 2024 objective
In order to satisfy her dreams of podiums, the Reunionese left the island where she grew up in December 2020 to train at the France pole in Fontainebleau, near Paris. A paying choice so far. “Oriane has been training for two years at a very fast pace, adds Nicolas Januel, coach of the Blues. Coming to Fontainebleau has changed her pace of life a lot. We had to digest all that, the pressure too. She is at an age where you have to take ownership of this project. »
To not burn out and arrive ready at the right time, like this week in Munich, his main objective of the season. “These kind of great moments will help him for the future, for sure. People put a lot of pressure on her, it shows, confirms Garnbret, double European champion, who signed her first international victory at 16 years old. And she is still learning. But she has a lot of potential and can really do great things in the future. »
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