“Mountain rescue must remain free”

Lhe strong heat and drought that are raging this summer throughout France have a strong impact on the high mountains. With temperatures above zero degrees for several weeks above four thousand meters in altitude, this environment is even more affected than the others by the effects of global warming.

In this context, the legitimate emotion aroused by tragic accidents inherent in the practice of the high mountains has fueled in recent weeks the temptation of a more coercive regulation of mountaineering, the establishment of a “climbing permit”, even a “deposit” to benefit mountain rescue.

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As mountain professionals, elected officials, mountaineering personalities or amateur mountaineers, we call collectively to make the choice of responsibility, humility and freedom. These values ​​are the basis of the inclusion of mountaineering in theUnesco as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, in 2019.

Actors continue to adapt

It is in this spirit that Gérard Devouassoux [1940-1974, mort sur les pentes de l’Everest]guide and first deputy to the mayor, founded, in Chamonix (Haute-Savoie), in 1972, the High Mountain Office (OHM) whose 50th anniversary is being celebrated, after a dark year which had forty-five deaths for the only massif of Mont-Blanc. “You don’t have to he said, suppress or create any kind of obligation. On the contrary, it is necessary to inform to prevent, to put the knowledge of the professionals at the service of “without guides”, to give information on the punctual state of the mountain, on the difficulties of each race, on the evolution of the meteorological conditions. »

For fifty years, public authorities, mountain professionals, rescuers and scientists, alpine clubs and sports associations have been working together to better prevent accidents by informing, advising, guiding and training without ever falling into the regulatory trap. In all the Alps, some normal access routes to great emblematic summits are today strongly discouraged. This does not mean the end of summer mountaineering.

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As far as climate change is concerned, mountain players continue to adapt. The guides observe, evaluate, advise and renew their offer to continue to offer unforgettable mountain experiences. Alpine clubs, sports associations and amateur mountaineers are taking the same path of adaptation and accountability.

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