How they did it in Scotland – Style

What is Scotland associated with? Good whiskey, bad weather and, of course, kilts. The latter, as a rule, are always checkered, and it is this pattern that will be discussed. Tartan is a checkered pattern that can be found on almost any wardrobe item. Scarves, blankets, kilts, in some cases even the lining of outerwear – almost everything is decorated with this pattern. In autumn it can be seen especially often, so let’s figure out where tartan came from and what it means.

In Old Gaelic, tartan is spelled Breacan and literally translates to “checkered”. It has seemingly endless varieties. The main connecting link is the intersection of horizontal and vertical lines. And what this intersection will be, its frequency, color, shape, size and number of lines, depends on who will weave this pattern. The first evidence of tartan dates back to the 3rd century AD, but it is not known for certain when exactly this pattern appeared in human everyday life. Tartan was most widespread in the Highlands, the largest region of Scotland, from where it spread throughout the country, and later throughout the world.

First of all, tartan means belonging to a certain clan – because it was they who settled the Highlands. The traditional Scottish look looked something like this: high leather boots, a kilt made of thick wool and with a unique pattern (which was the calling card of the clan), a thick shirt and a woolen headdress (bonnet), also decorated with the clan’s coat of arms – as a rule, this was an image of some then a flower. The colors of the clan were not chosen by chance: previously, the fabric was dyed with the help of plants, roots and berries common in a certain region, which, along with the pattern, made it clear to others where a particular tartan wearer came from. With the spread of chemical dyeing and progress in the field of weaving fabrics, patterns became more complex, and the process of producing and sewing fabric, on the contrary, became noticeably simpler.

Tartan became widespread in folklore during the Second Jacobite Rebellion. Prince Charles Edward Stuart—or Bonnie Prince Charlie, as he was known—attempted to seize the throne by Scottish rebel forces in 1745. His plan, along with the army, was defeated, but British soldiers for a long time remembered several thousand Scots marching in tartan clothes. Everyone who wore a tartan represented their own clan in this rebellion.

Over time, tartan became part of the royal style – many heirs to the throne, coming to Scotland, paid tribute to the culture and heritage of this “unconquered” people. For a long time, this pattern was associated with prim British style – warm checkered blankets decorated a large number of homes in both Scotland and England. At the end of the 18th century, the checkered pattern began to spread in America. However, there they call it plaid – “plaid”. Instead of a specific item, the term has spread to the entire plaid pattern, so plaid shirt can theoretically be translated as “plaid shirt.”

Tartan was looked at differently in the 1970s. Thanks to the spread of punk culture, the plaid pattern has gained new popularity. Historians claim that the choice of tartan was not accidental: it was a kind of message to the English authorities. Recalling the traditions of freedom and rebellion of the Scottish people, anti-establishment punks felt appropriate in tartan – a symbol of struggle and independence. Today, tartan is one of the most common fall patterns. Checkered scarves have become a universal accessory for the cold season. Next time, when choosing a thing or accessory with such a print, pay special attention to its origin – perhaps this is a greeting from the past from a real Scottish clan.

Ilya Petruk