Eclecticism and “taste of childhood”: culinary fashion trends for 2024 named
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“Bears in the North” turns into fancy raff coffee
The outgoing year 2023 is considered less of a shock for all areas of life than 2022 was, when we really had to rebuild in a new way. This also applies to gastronomic issues: no sharp changes in trends in the restaurant business are currently being recorded, experts are sure. There are quiet sympathies of gourmets, which will certainly remain in 2024. Which ones exactly, MK found out.
“All our trends are cyclical, they give way to one another, and this is quite predictable,” explained Sergei Mironov, a representative of the Federation of Restaurateurs and Hoteliers, in an interview with an MK correspondent. — For example, this year there was a boom in fast food establishments, because restaurants became expensive for both customers and businesses. But I think that next year this trend will decline. As for purely gastronomic issues, who is now trending towards well-known, understandable tastes in a new interpretation.
According to a study conducted by specialists from one of the Western companies, several trends are observed throughout the world today. Among them are culinary borrowings: dishes based on a combination of different national roots. In Russia, this trend is refracted in its own way – since we live in a multinational country, we have traditions from different regions on one plate. For example, Crimean chebureks stuffed with Kamchatka crabs or Donskoy kurnik with Murmansk fish.
The same trend is noted by Sergei Mironov. In his opinion, talking about “Russian cuisine” is not entirely correct. After all, what we consider “homemade food” and “the taste of childhood” is most often the cuisine of the USSR, and not Russian as such. There is a request for it, and there is a request for its creative rethinking. In addition, according to Mironov, today the Russian consumer is focused on eating domestic products – even if they use them to prepare a dish according to a foreign recipe.
Another trend that is being recorded on a global scale is “newstalgia,” that is, a combination of nostalgia and new gastronomic principles. Restaurants have been using it for a long time. Among the desserts that are offered to Muscovites by certain good restaurants, you can see, for example, curd cheese with chocolate, which looks exactly like sausage with green peas (a school canteen classic, familiar to every child). Another creative rethinking of the gastronomic heritage of past years is a waffle cake with condensed milk, made… in the shape of a can of condensed milk. More precisely, two different ones: blue (ordinary) or brown (boiled). True, the price of such desserts is very far from the former cost of Soviet delicacies. Well, what can you do: you have to pay for “Newstalgia”!
Sometimes they are willing to pay a lot. Those who sell banal pancakes or cheesecakes at exorbitant prices or, for example, make fashionable raf coffee with crushed “Mishka” candies or “Crow’s Feet” latte, also know about this. Two birds (or bears?) with one stone: like raf (that’s new!), and like candy from childhood.
This also applies to savory dishes. Let’s say that in one of the restaurants on Patriarch’s Ponds they offer a sandwich with red caviar as breakfast. Nothing special: a solid slice of white bread, spread with whipped butter and complemented by a generous portion of red caviar. A taste of memories of a New Year’s feast with your grandmother and parents… for only 790 rubles. Of course, recalculating this price into the cost of cans of caviar is virtually useless: we all know that people go to restaurants not only for food, but also for the atmosphere.
And not only the Soviet years, but also the nineties become the object of nostalgia – which, in general, is not surprising, considering what is on our calendar now. For example, a bar was opened on the Garden Ring that imitates a video salon from the perestroika era, selling hot dogs and burgers, and in fast food establishments, sets of sweets from the nineties are in great demand – chocolate bars of all stripes, Kinder surprises, acidic “yuppie” drinks and everything other things, without which the life of a certain generation can neither be imagined nor understood.
Newspaper headline:
With a taste of newstalgia
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