A suit starts with a hanger – Style

It’s pretty fair to say that the best suit is the one that’s made to order. And this is logical: since it is made for a specific person according to his standards, it will fit perfectly. However, tailoring a suit is a serious undertaking that requires serious investment and a lot of time. For work and daily wear, you can choose the “off the hanger” model. Here are some basic tips on how to choose the best option.

How should a jacket fit?

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a suit are the length of the sleeves, collar and fit at the shoulders. If all these indicators are met in accordance with the norm, the jacket will most likely fit well. The shoulders of the jacket should lie flat and the seam should end where your shoulders end. If the seam is longer than the shoulder line, the jacket will look baggy; if it is shorter, it will be difficult to move your arms freely. The length of the sleeves is also very important, as it is the first thing that catches your eye. The sleeves of the jacket should end at the base of the wrist. Ideally, shirt sleeves should protrude 1.5 cm from under the jacket.

The same goes for the collar – this is one of the most noticeable features of the jacket. There should be no gap between the shirt collar and the jacket collar, otherwise the latter will look too large and unsuitable. Ideally, the jacket collar should cover the back and sides of the shirt collar.

Jacket length and waist

The length of the jacket may vary depending on the style you follow. The rules of the classic style dictate the following indicator: the jacket should end approximately at the level of the upper phalanx of the thumb. At the same time, many men have recently given preference to shorter models – shortened jackets are preferred, for example, by Italians. In general, the jacket should cover the top of the trouser pocket. Anything higher is no longer acceptable.

When buttoned, the jacket should not look like the letter X – this means that the waist is too narrow and such a jacket will restrict movement. The part of the jacket below the button should lie straight. Obviously, these rules apply to single-breasted models. The silhouette of the X will be noticeable when moving, but this is normal. Another problem is the size is too big. If the waist of the jacket runs in a single straight line along the sides even when buttoned, you should choose a model one size (or maybe two) smaller.

Fit and length of trousers

Checking your trousers’ waist size is very easy – they should sit comfortably on your hips without a belt. Neither too tight nor too loose. You also need to keep in mind that the shirt will be tucked into the trousers and there should be enough space for this. The fit is also important – the trousers should cover the entire thigh bone.

As for the length of the trousers, their relationship with the shoes will help. Again, you can turn to more modern cropped models – they barely reach the shoe, sometimes showing part of the toe. These trousers should be worn with a cropped jacket, otherwise they will look ill-fitting. More classic models can be identified by the fold. When the trousers hang over the shoes, they lie down and form a fold – so there should only be one. If the trousers fold like an accordion on the shoes, they should definitely be hemmed.

And one last important rule: don’t forget to remove all seams and open pockets before wearing your new suit for the first time. All jacket and trouser pockets must be functional.

Ilya Petruk