Working class – Style

Dr. Martens are perhaps the most recognizable boots in modern culture. Regardless of color, the rubber sole and yellow stitching are a nod to the iconic British brand. Dr. Martens have never gone out of fashion, but now these boots are experiencing a new wave of popularity – especially given the grunge trend and the general return of the 1990s to the streets and catwalks. For those who want to be in the context of this brand, we tell the story of the most important work boots.

Contrary to popular belief, Dr. Martens were not born in the UK. In 1945, after the end of World War II, German soldier and doctor Klaus Martens was trying to recover from an injury – a broken leg. The 25-year-old soldier used available materials and made a boot with a shock-absorbing rubber sole, which, unlike standard models, made walking easier. He showed his invention to his friend and colleague Herbert Funk. Two doctors decided to start producing orthopedic shoes and sold them mainly to elderly women suffering from foot problems. In 1959, Martens and Funk decided to introduce their technology abroad.

In 1960, the Griggs family, which had been manufacturing English shoes for 60 years, bought an exclusive license to manufacture Dr. Martens. It was decided to keep the name of the creator and localize it in the English manner (instead of Maertens, Martens appeared on the logo). This is how the iconic model 1460 appeared, which is still the most popular in the brand’s line. By the way, 1460 is the date of creation of the model: April 1, 1960. “Martens” quickly became part of the uniform of postmen, factory workers, and even police officers. They were inexpensive (originally a pair of Dr. Martens cost two pounds), durable and reliable boots. Gradually, shoes migrated from workshops and post offices to the streets of England.

The first street subculture to fall in love with Dr. Martens are considered to be skinheads. And no, these are not the skinheads you most likely think about. English skinheads of the 1960s were simply young people from working-class families, lovers of reggae and ska, many of whom came from Jamaica. These guys had nothing to do with nationalism – on the contrary, they opposed any manifestation of racism. Pretty quickly to the club of Dr. fans. Martens and punks came. Both subcultures consisted primarily of working class, anti-establishment, and young musicians. Gradually, “Martens” captured the minds of almost all of young Britain: punks painted their boots and added metallic elements to them, goths painted yellow stripes black, skinheads wore boots with tight rolled-up jeans and suspenders. The Who, Sex Pistols, The Specials, Madness – lead singers and musicians of these groups often appeared on stage at Dr. Martens.

In the 1970s and 1980s, Dr. Martens became identified with the English subcultures of the time. In some schools in the 1980s, wearing these shoes was prohibited because they were a symbol of the fight against the state and the system. Football fans, who previously wore work boots and jeans, had to invent a new style so that the police would not bother them (this is how the Casual football style was born). In the second half of the 1980s, Dr. Martens gradually migrated to the USA. At that time, the punk and hardcore punk movement was actively developing in America, many bands came on tour to the United Kingdom and took home pairs of Dr. Martens. The subcultural wave could no longer be stopped, and the brand, which had previously avoided associations with any movements, made this its trump card.

Today Dr. Martens are worn by everyone – adherents of the original 1960s style, punks, hypebeasts and fashionistas from good families. These boots are still associated with street culture, but more in a decorative sense – it seems that gentrification has reached footwear as well. However, it is important to remember the history and know why you choose a particular model. Here’s what to wear with Dr. Martens – a suit, jeans or a light skirt – it’s up to you.

Ilya Petruk