Unique “Zebra” watch by Konstantin Chaykin – Kommersant

The appearance of the next watch with anthropomorphic “faces”, ristmons (from wrist – “wrist” and monster – “monster”) from the most sought-after Russian watchmaker, full member and for some time president of the Academy of Independent Watchmakers AHCI Konstantin Chaykin is always an event. Since 2017, when the first “jokers” were released, they were, as a rule, equipped with basic Swiss movements ETA 2824/2892 or Vaucher 3002 with original add-on modules in the form of unusual “eyes” indicating hours and minutes. Using basic Swiss-made movements is a common practice in the industry, and other brands offering collectible watches do not refuse it. Nevertheless, Konstantin Chaykin always had a desire to develop his own basic caliber, which can be used both in a simple configuration and in combination with complications.

This is what the new “Zebra” watch, made in a single copy, is equipped with. Based on the configuration of the dial, their closest analogue will be the “Minotaur” (Minotaur Special Chinese New Year 2021), in which for the first time an indication with a double-disc day of the week indicator in the form of the character’s nostrils appeared. In the Zebra, Chaykin used the same dial architecture, but developed a completely new caliber K.33.3 for it, which became the first automatic movement with a micro-rotor designed and produced in Russia. This becomes clear if you turn the watch over and look through the sapphire window on the case back. The use of a micro-rotor, made to power the winding (total power reserve – 42 hours), in this case from heavy tungsten, reduces the overall thickness of the movement and makes the watch thinner and more elegant. Three patent applications have been filed for the new mechanism.

For more confident reading of the double indicator of the days of the week, the Zebra uses sapphire lenses on the dial glass. Even more noticeable was the appearance of a never before used indicator. Chaykin created a new “smiling” complication – a crown mode indicator. When the crown at 6 o’clock is pulled out, the Zebra’s smile changes from white to red. She knows how to stick her tongue out!

The steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm thick and the guilloche dial is white and black due to the inset black carbon parts. The calfskin strap, designed specifically for this watch, is also black with white stripes.