Sautoirs are back – Style

For a long time, women were not supposed to know what time it was – skilled watchmakers hid dials in brooches and minaudières, attached chatelaine chains to dresses and belts, or hung them around their necks under the guise of neck jewelry. Long necklaces came into fashion in the 1910s and 20s and became a prominent feature of the Art Deco style. Sautoirs made of precious beads with a tassel or a massive pendant at the end fell significantly below the chest, reaching almost to the waistline, which in the styles of dresses of that time was located quite low. A clock built into a pendant or medallion made it possible to secretly observe the time.

The next surge in popularity of sautoir watches occurred in the 1970s. Women no longer needed to hide their dials, and designers experimented with colors and materials, for example, they worked a lot with ornamental stones. Modern watches on the neck are stylistic echoes of the past, which at the same time demonstrate the art of watch miniatures in high jewelry embodiment.

Jaeger-LeCoutre craftsmen showed the Reverso Secret Necklace. The iconic rectangular Reverso case is attached to a gold and diamond cord. As expected, it is double-sided: on one side there is a geometric pattern of gold, onyx and diamonds, on the other there is a tiny dial with arrows. Hidden inside is a hand-wound caliber.

Piaget’s know-how includes ultra-thin movements, dials made of precious stones and special gold engraving. Just like half a century ago, the brand creates sautoirs with watches, and this is an exceptionally balanced work of jewelry and watch art. The latest collection contains two “Swinging Sautoirs”. One has a malachite dial and an emerald cabochon attached to a thin double chain. Another combines textured gold links, a palace decor engraved dial and decorative diamond tassels.

The Mademoiselle Priv Lion sautoir is instantly recognizable as the symbols of the house of Chanel. And above all, a sculpted lion in the form of a precious lid. If you move it away, you will see a black onyx dial with hour and minute hands. The reverse side of the medallion on the chain is also made of black ornamental stone.

A precious cover hides the time on the “secret” Perle watch from Van Cleef & Arpels. They are made in the form of round pendants framed with gold pearls, and time is hidden under a dome of polished rose quartz, chalcedony and lapis lazuli. In a more expensive version, the lid is decorated with pavé of rubies, emeralds or blue sapphires.

The unique Bulgari Secret Watch Cameo Imperiale necklace is inspired by ancient Roman coins. At the request of the Roman house, craftsmen from Torre del Greco, who specialize in making cameos, executed a profile portrait of Cleopatra. The image of the Egyptian queen surrounded by diamonds and colored sapphires is reminiscent of an ancient coin. Hidden underneath is a complex in-house skeleton movement, the Tourbillon Lumire BVL 208.

Nina Spiridonova