Rebecca and “David TLV” – Weekend – Kommersant
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Rebecca
Graceful halibut with capers
The Israeli theme excites the minds of Moscow restaurateurs more and more. Two more fresh projects serve as proof of this. Restaurateur Svetlana Drobot (Tokyo Sushi, Oblomov, Osteria di Campagna, Linbistro) and chef Grigory Chunikhin, who recently opened the Ester bistro in Tel Aviv in the basement on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, again turned to the Jewish theme. This time the concept turned out to be even more bizarre, and the location even more daring – the new French-Israeli bistro Rebecca registered in the new residential complex “Garden Quarters” in Khamovniki, right next to Emanuele Pollini’s sensational gastronomic project “Vadvare”. Svetlana Drobot, who has extensive professional experience, has successfully staged an unobvious location not for the first time. So it was with Tokyo Sushi, which anticipated the “Nikitsky” boom, the calculation turned out to be just as accurate for Ostozhenka, whose problematic reputation regarding occupancy did not prevent Linbistro from working at full capacity from day one. It seems that in Khamovniki the Drobot team hit the target again, the proximity to Vadvara, fashionable in knowledgeable circles and the Usachevsky market, immediately takes Rebecca out of a number of ordinary “house” restaurants, and long-term plans for the development and improvement of an elite real estate complex in in the very heart of the prestigious and deserted (in terms of restaurants) Khamovniki point to the game in a big way and for a long time. Meanwhile, the tasks within the location have not disappeared, so “Rebecca” offers a well-selling comfort food for every day, but in a very elegant “package”. The cuisine of the Jewish community in Paris (the largest in Europe) is taken as a starting point, and Parisian savory with a legitimate Middle Eastern accent is taken as an inspiration. Outwardly, Rebecca looks like a classic Parisian brasserie in the latest “iPhone” version: stylish, elegant, 4.5-meter-high ceilings, streamlined mirrors, an open kitchen, its own bakery behind glass, discreet monochrome and cute vintage details in the serving. An architect with twenty-five years of experience, Valery Lizunov, who has already worked on BB Group projects for the umpteenth time, once again showed virtuoso adaptability and seemed to be “younger” by twenty years, the space he created looks so modern and relevant. But the main ideological inspirer and generator of meanings of “Rebecca”, without a doubt, was the chef Grigory Chunikhin, whose creative abilities were fully revealed. His kitchen has ceased to be complex and replete with details that distract from the essence, but, on the contrary, has acquired conciseness and clarity. A lot of vegetables, simple bright combinations of products, clear and meaningful flavor accents, a witty and confident game with European and Oriental components turn Rebecca’s menu into an author’s benefit performance of the chef, who for the first time showed maximum confidence in all positions – from appetizers to desserts, not bypassing the section of main dishes. dishes and a bakery with a dotted set of baguette, challah, land mine and tartine (puff brioche is also next in line). In Rebecca’s dishes, one should not look for either French or Middle Eastern direct references (with the exception of the side by side side-by-side display of challah and baguette), this is simply the author’s vision of the topic, absolutely unobtrusive, masterful and unconstrained. This is how you should perceive the porous baguette (more like ciabatta in texture) with tahini, served as a compliment, and fantasy avocado hummus with pistachios (490 rubles), and unexpectedly delicious cod liver with red pickled onions, sibulet and mustard (570 rub.), and crispy fresh radish carpaccio with spicy cheese, a touch of horseradish and spicy anchovies (470 rub.), which the chef will soon replace with marinated sardines, which, no doubt, will only benefit the dish. The salad section demonstrates an excellent mastery of the acidity balance, which is also noticeable in the main dishes. Chef mixes beef roast beef with eggplant marinated in wine vinegar (970 rubles), very bright and energetic in taste. The same bright acidity works well with halibut, whose deliberately delicate taste, along with neutral kale and asparagus, are skillfully set off by capers, producing a flavor explosion effect. With the help of such precise taste accents, Grigory Chunikhin now builds work with products, and it looks more convincing than ever. Jerusalem artichoke with sheep cheese and truffle (790 rubles) and artichokes with white bean cassoulet and kale (890 rubles) are the best proof of this.
Rebecca (4/5)
Efremova street, 10, building 1, +7 (499) 110-34-24
“David TLV”
Affordable lamb shawarma
Another variation on the theme of Tel Aviv bistros is the new David TLV project on Nikitsky Boulevard, created by the joint efforts of restaurateurs Mitya Borisov, who systematically built his bar empire on a single boulevard, David Kurosh (David was opened on the site of his Primitivo project , also in his “track record” – Bontempi and “Wine Market”) and Ilya Stepanenko (raclet-bat Borough, wine glass Lilyhammer). “David” turned out to be very cozy, compact (only 30 seats) and unexpectedly sincere. The simplest menu of the brand chef Igor Sosenkov (Mitzva, The Bix, Zionist) does not pretend to do anything at all, except to feed everyone with the simplest Israeli food without any tricks and tricks. There is a meze with pita and matzah from seven variations, including hummus (210 rubles), and chicken liver pate (250 rubles), and cottage cheese with salted lemons and zaatar (250 rubles). There is shawarma in pita or laffe, wrapped in waxed paper, with pulled beef (510 rubles), lamb (490 rubles) or falafel (480 rubles). There are several types of shakshuka, and not only for breakfast. Well, the obligatory number of the program is baked eggplant (480 rubles), spicy cauliflower (580 rubles) and schnitzel for the whole plate (580 rubles). Prosecco and Cabernet for 350 rubles. per glass fit perfectly into this unpretentious surroundings, as if unobtrusively hinting that respectable, expensive restaurants can never beat such a small check. However, there is no direct confrontation between different business models in Moscow so far.
“David TLV” (3/5)
Nikitsky Boulevard, 25, +7 (499) 391-51-61
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