Paco Raban: “I don’t believe that it’s possible to create something new in fashion design now, the future is only with new materials”

In early February, in the 89th year, the legendary artist, architect, writer and magician Paco Raban passed away. He was extraordinary in every way. A fashion designer of a traditional orientation among his Parisian colleagues, who never found his destiny, moreover, a Basque by nationality. He was the first to demonstrate a collection of clothes with musical accompaniment, while others showed their models under the verbal descriptions of the presenter. He was one of the first to release black fashion models on the catwalk, and began his journey in fashion by making clothes from paper, plastic and metal.

The first collection of accessories designer for the Fashion House Cristobal Balenciaga Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo (who took the pseudonym Paco Raban) was demonstrated in Paris in 1966. These were “12 unwearable dresses made of modern materials”. Black girls came out barefoot on the catwalk, as the young designer did not have time to make shoes for the show. PVC, aluminum plates, plastic discs, plexiglass, metal, and paper acted as “modern materials”. It was then that Paco Raban was first called Wacko Paco, that is, “Crazy Paco”, and Coco Chanel contemptuously called the young colleague “tinsmith”.

However, the not too warm reception of the French beau monde did not at all cool the ardor of the burning Spaniard. He continued his outrageous activities in the fashion world. As a result, wedding dresses made of paper, coats made of metal triangles, dresses made of plastic bottles, feathers and door hinges, and even a dress made of pure gold weighing 9 kilograms, which was tried on by the artist’s muse, French singer Francoise Hardy, at the international jewelry exhibition in 1968, saw the light of day. .

The next stage of the designer’s work was opened by cooperation with the Hollywood Dream Factory. The chain mail he created for the role of Audrey Hepburn in the film “Two for the Road” (1967) received no less legendary sound than the above-described show. After that, he was already responsible for the costumes in the science fiction film “Barbarella” (1968) with Jane Fonda. Since then, Futurism has become the main focus of his collections. In 1999, Paco Raban lost interest in the fashion world and sold the brand. However, the Paco Rabanne fashion house, under the leadership of creative director Julien Dossen, still carefully honors and brings to life the ideas of its creator.

The special relationship of the famous fashion designer with Moscow is also interesting. Paco Raban truly considered our city to be “the most beautiful capital in the world”. As it turned out, the artist first came to Moscow with his mother back in 1950 and even met Joseph Stalin. “The face of a demon, then I thought,” Raban recalled in an interview, “He patted my hair, but I did not feel the warmth of his hand.” Then he came in 1994 to the legendary Dostman Fashion Weeks at the Rossiya State Central Concert Hall, organized by producer Alexander Dostman, and the last time in 2005, when he brought his graphic exhibition of paintings to the Central House of Artists on Krymsky Val. On one of his last visits, Paco Raban gave an interview to the author of this text. I will say right away that his belief in reincarnation made an indelible impression on me. Paco Raban especially emphasized that big eyes, like his own, are a clear sign of a wise soul who has visited the Earth more than once. Later I found out that his grandmother was considered a witch, and it was to her that the famous artist owes the pseudonym “Paco”, which means “crow” in Greek. In general, nothing prevents you from believing that Paco Raban did not die at all and will very soon incarnate in a new body, continuing to amaze the world with his revolutionary ideas.

Anna Subbotina.

Photos from social networks