Russian wine takes over the shelves – Kommersant FM
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Among Russian wine, the most popular are drinks from the Krasnodar Territory, Crimea and Sevastopol – they are chosen by more than 60% of buyers, according to Roskachestvo. Every fifth person buys wine from Dagestan, and the list of favorites includes products from Stavropol winegrowers.
The results of this study are also confirmed by alcohol sellers. They warn that there are risks of even a shortage of wines in the most popular price segment, noted Fortwine executive director Alexander Lipilin: “Indeed, somewhere in the region of 55-60% of sales are from Russian wines, in sparkling wines there is even a slightly larger share, but always you need to look at the nuances.
If we are talking about high-price drinks that are presented in expensive restaurants, then, of course, 90% of the drinks on the menu are not Russian products, but imported ones. If we are talking about supermarkets and the average price range, then the ratio is 50 to 50.
We are now at a certain crossroads, a crossroads. The fact is that in the summer of 2023, a rather serious step was taken to support Russian winemaking, which radically changed the situation – duties were sharply increased. And now we still don’t fully understand how this will affect the market, because the import and wine production processes are quite inert, they will react to changes somewhere on the horizon of a couple of years. Then it will be clear what this decision will lead to.
If we talk about the situation that existed before, then in principle the market was balanced: Russian and imported wine were approximately 50/50. I think that there will be some difficulties in the low price range, because imports are not expected there due to the peculiarities of this legislation about duties.
There will also be a shortage of Russian wines, because this is not the most marginal segment, and if possible, our winemakers will try to migrate somewhere to a more expensive segment, that is, closer to the price of 1 thousand rubles. per bottle.”
In July 2023, the government increased the rate of import duties on wine from unfriendly countries, this list includes the United States and all European Union countries. The collection increased from 12.5% to 20%. Accordingly, imports have become more expensive. This is one of the reasons why Russians choose domestically produced drinks, explained the owner of the Zvonok bar in St. Petersburg, Anton Ione: “There is now a higher excise tax on imported wines. And what we could previously afford for 500 rubles now costs 800 rubles.
At the same time, there is also a growth in local winemaking, and the quality of drinks has increased quite noticeably. Many winemakers have a choice in the premium segment; such products are not inferior to foreign ones.
Sparkling wines from Russia are now very good. That is, if earlier, except for “Abrau-Durso,” there was nothing good, now “Zolotaya Balka”, and “Balaklava”, and the same “Taman” make decent wines, which are not very good in quality in the middle segment inferior to foreign analogues such as Cava or Prosecco.”
All the restaurateurs with whom Kommersant FM spoke noted that Russia has good wine that can compete with drinks from old European wineries. But consumers are still distrustful of everything domestic, noted Konstantin Nosach, head sommelier of the Meat Coin restaurant: “Guests mostly still prefer European wines and brands from the New World. One of the most popular is France, Bordeaux, Chateau Citran. It costs about 14 thousand rubles. But at the same time, there is a wonderful option from the Galitsky and Galitsky winery, which is called Cosaque and costs much less.
This is a question of the loyalty of restaurant visitors themselves. Just a couple of years ago, for example, few people accepted domestic water, everyone wanted Italian or French, but now guests are calm and even glad that there are Russian brands. I think you just need to give it a little time.
Previously, people were somewhat skeptical about local wines, because everyone knew that there were only some large brands like Inkerman and Massandra, and they wanted something exclusive from Europe.”
At the same time, every fifth Russian said that he considers himself a wine connoisseur and knows how one variety differs from another. And almost half of those surveyed – 47% – admitted that they only have a rough idea about this. 13% of respondents reported that when buying wine they do not pay attention to its type at all.
Everything is clear with us – Telegram channel “Kommersant FM”.
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