Orange fermentation – Newspaper Kommersant No. 215 (7416) of 11/19/2022

A new subcategory is being formed on the Russian wine market – orange wines produced by fermenting grape juice with skin and seeds. The product has appeared in the assortment of such major players as Kuban-Vino and Beluga Group wineries, and its production can grow by 50% in a year. The dynamics are in line with global trends, and local demand is supported by consumers switching away from red wines.

According to the results of January-September 2022, Russian winemakers produced more than 130 thousand liters of orange wines, which is a third more than in the whole of 2021. This is stated in a study by experts from the Wine Guide of Russia. By the end of 2022, they expect the production of such wines to grow by 45-50% year-on-year. On the scale of the entire market, this is not so much, but it indicates the formation of a new subcategory, says Olesya Bunyaeva, head of the Wine Guide of Russia.

Orange wines are made from white grape varieties, primarily Rkatsiteli, which is used to make wines in the style’s birthplace, Georgia, the study says. As experts explain, traditionally such wines are produced in clay amphorae, where the grape juice ferments in contact with the pulp (skin, seeds). Today, winemakers use stainless steel containers for orange wines, and the contact of juice with pulp is regulated, which, among other things, allows to increase production volumes, the study says.

According to the Wine Guide of Russia, 12 enterprises produce orange wines in the country, including Kuban-Vino (Chateau Taman, Aristov, etc.) and Golubitskoe Estate, part of the Beluga Group. Alexander Stavtsev, head of the WineRetail information center, says that orange wines in Russia used to be the product of enthusiastic winemakers, focused on a narrow audience. And now large producers are interested in the style, the share of such wines in retail chains is growing, and prices have become lower, he points out. Moreover, the expert adds, some chains are developing joint products with wineries in the segment.

Olesya Bunyaeva also points out that orange wines appeared in supermarkets in the price range from 500 rubles. up to 1 thousand rubles for a bottle. For example, “Chateau Taman” in this style on the WineStyle online showcase is sold for 509 rubles, Golubitskoe Estate – for 1.5 thousand rubles. for a bottle of 0.75 liters. Georgian wine Askaneli Brothers is available for 1 thousand rubles. for a bottle. A Kommersant source among producers says that the yield in orange wines is no higher than in more mass-produced styles.

Andrey Ushakov, Marketing Director of Luding Group, says that the growing popularity of orange wines is a global trend that is also being implemented in Russia. According to Alexander Stavtsev, the boom in orange wines in the world continues, and in addition to Georgia, the product is produced in many European countries, including Spain, Italy, and the Balkan region. As Mr. Ushakov notes, in Russia the trend was also influenced by a noticeable switch of consumers from red wines, which historically dominated the market, to white ones.

Luding Group’s sales of Russian orange wines have doubled this year, also due to the replenishment of the portfolio with new products. First of all, orange wine from the Crimea is in demand, Andrei Ushakov clarifies. Ladoga development director Dmitry Isachenkov says that orange wines from Georgia are at the heart of the company’s portfolio, but the line of Russian production is also expanding. In general, the company’s category sales in the first ten months of 2022 grew by 50% year-on-year, he said.

Andrey Ushakov notes that Russian orange wines of a less intense color may be in demand among consumers for whom the style of Georgian wines will seem complicated. And Mr. Stavtsev adds that the prospects for orange wines in Russia will become clearer next year, when the entire wine range may be transformed due to changes in consumer demand.

Anatoly Kostyrev