Clothing stores try on sites – Kommersant FM

Clothing stores try on sites – Kommersant FM

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Russians have become less likely to buy clothes in offline stores. According to preliminary estimates, in 2023, sales of fashion retailers fell by 4-6%. Infoline company data is provided by Shopper’s. The average bill also decreased by 3% and amounted to just under 3 thousand rubles. A drop in sales was also observed in 2022 and was even more significant, by more than 10%.

Experts explain this as a natural transformation of the market; more and more buyers are seeking to purchase clothes online. Moreover, the demand for online purchases is growing not only due to marketplaces, says the head of the Infoline-Analytics company Mikhail Burmistrov:

“There is a trend to increase sales in C2C channels, the so-called classified feeds, this is primarily Avito. The main segment here is children’s clothing, which is most characterized by a high proportion of used items. Children grow quickly, and buying new clothes is often not very practical.

As for the structure of the offline sales segment itself, the situation here is extremely uneven. In principle, there are positive dynamics among the leading companies in the Russian market, such as Gloria Jeans and Melon Fashion Group; Familia shows very positive dynamics; Henderson is the leader in the men’s clothing sales market. They were able to take advantage of the departure of large international companies from Russia. But in general, online pressure is increasing, and offline retail is clearly losing.

At the same time, the situation in the retail market is very different. We see companies that have outstanding sales growth and new formats. Those companies that I spoke about not only demonstrate fairly high growth rates, but a huge success is that they were able to replicate large-format retail objects. That is, they occupied those sites that were vacated after the departure of H&M and Inditex, international players who had previously been leaders of the Russian market.”

As analysts note, some stores managed not only to replace Western players, but also to expand the range of clothing, first for women, and then for men and children. Nevertheless, it is too early to rejoice at the success of domestic stores. Their rapid development is hampered by several factors, notes head of the CORE.XP retail department Marina Malakhatko:

“Those companies and teams that have acquired significant areas left after the conditional H&M, Uniqlo, etc., need to build their production in the required volume (range of collections, etc.). This is a natural cycle, which suggests that after the feverish demand for the sites of departed foreigners, stabilization and reassessment of their capabilities begins.

Everyone wants to get to the best grounds on the ground floor, preferably next to some cool “anchor”. There are very few such places on the market, there is a waiting list for them.

The real problems now are with personnel, since labor costs have increased significantly. In addition, there is not enough storage capacity, the cost of transportation is constantly increasing, both from friendly and unfriendly countries, which one way or another continue to transport. Customs regulations are changing, which significantly affects the cost. The conditions for cargo insurance have changed, and the cost of work and tailoring of the collection has also naturally increased.”

The problem with vacancy of retail space became known at the end of December 2023. As Forbes wrote with reference to NF Group, the center of Moscow was occupied by local brands. In 2023, 30 stores of Russian companies opened there, which is almost 60% more than in 2022. Approximately 10% of retail space remained vacant. In some areas of Moscow, the figure is even lower; for example, on Kuznetsky Most, less than 6% of premises are available for street retail.


Everything is clear with us – Telegram channel “Kommersant FM”.

Maria Shirokova

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