Subtle Matters – Style – Kommersant

Prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics are increasingly found not only in yogurt, but also in skin care products. How exactly they work outside the digestive system – Kommersant Style finds out.

Over the past few years, there has been a growing interest in bacteria and viruses, how they function and how they can be controlled (thanks to covid). These micro-organisms are becoming an increasingly popular topic with cosmetic brands, as evidenced by a new wave of products that claim probiotics, prebiotics, or postbiotics as active ingredients. They are usually taken orally to aid digestion or boost immunity, but cream manufacturers claim that when applied topically, they help the skin stay in a state of so-called bacterial harmony, thereby offsetting factors that lead to redness, dryness, and loss of firmness.

Recall who is who: probiotics are live microorganisms believed to provide health benefits, prebiotics are the nutrients consumed by these microorganisms, and postbiotics are what they produce.

The goal is to balance them, because what is on and in our skin is not always hostile: microbes serve as the first line of defense against infections and modulate the immune system.

New cosmetics are created just for this: tonics that do not tighten the skin after application, creams to protect and balance the skin, sprays for the skin with probiotic enzymes and peptides for nutrition and hydration. Among Russian companies, Philosophy by Alex Kontier joined the useful race and released a line of body products with the telling name Microbiome Skin Research. The creator of the brand, Alex Contier, explains that the microbiome is the microflora on the surface of the skin and it is sensitive to any changes both in the body itself and to environmental factors. “Essentially, the microbiome is our skin’s immune system that needs to be balanced throughout life. Its violation leads to skin dehydration, irritation and increased sensitivity,” he says.

Products with “good” bacteria, like in yogurt, are already appearing in all categories of the beauty world: there are not only face creams, but also shampoos that can regulate the quantity and quality of microorganisms on the scalp. Looking forward to probiotic nail polishes or “healthy” fragrances.

Irina Kirienko