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Kommersant Style talks about why collagen is needed, how it affects appearance and well-being, and when you should think about replenishing it.

It seems that there is no more fashionable and more demanded word “collagen” in the beauty industry today. Many cosmetic and pharmaceutical giants produce all kinds of collagen forms: creams, powders, ampoules, with different composition and very different prices: more than 70 thousand rubles are asked for a box of Swiss Cellcosmet sheet masks today, and high-quality Japanese and German drinking collagen is offered no cheaper 7 thousand rubles for packing. To understand why all this is needed, remember what collagen is. It is an essential protein that is one of the main building blocks of bones, muscles, tendons, and skin. It is responsible for the structure of the skin, its color, it is often called the skin frame, as it supports the functions of elastin and hyaluronic acid. Those of us with lots of collagen look much younger than those of us who didn’t win the genetic lottery and have lower collagen levels. In addition to genetics, do not forget about age: studies show that most people from the age of 25 begin to lose collagen by about 1% per year, and by the age of 45, its loss is already 25%. Gender is also important: men have significantly higher testosterone levels than women. Due to this, the skin is denser, and there is 20-30% more collagen in it. “Men age more slowly,” says Elina Balieva, SlowMo cosmetologist. “In women, a decrease in collagen levels is largely due to hormonal status. For example, during the menopause for the first few years, it decreases plus or minus by 30%. Then these processes slow down. It is as the collagen breaks down that the skin loses its elasticity.”

Svetlana Mashak, Doctor of Medical Sciences, Professor of the Department of Histology, Embryology and Cytology of the Pediatric Faculty of the Novosibirsk State Medical University, Coral Club expert, believes that at the age of 25 each of us has enzymopathy, and therefore this is the same age from which we can recommend an additional taking collagen supplements. “Collagen, depending on the type of origin, is divided into animal, vegetable and marine. The latter has the best digestibility due to the small size of the molecules and is most similar to the collagen that is present in the human body,” she says. “However, this form is the most expensive, as there are nuances and strict rules for transporting and storing this type of collagen. The vegetable one is suitable for people with different types of allergies, while the animal one is the most affordable.” It is believed that the first results from taking supplements are visible after a month of regular use. Since collagen is present in all tissues of the body, the effect can be felt in different ways. “Someone will notice an improvement in skin turgor and hydration. And others will feel an improvement in the functioning of the musculoskeletal system. For others, vision may improve, since collagen, among other things, restores the vitreous body, and headaches can also go away by strengthening the walls of cerebral vessels,” says Svetlana.

The components of the “less collagen – more wrinkles” formula can be swapped and collagen can be added not only in the form of dietary supplements, but also in cosmetics or special procedures. Elina Balieva is sure that collagen deficiency cannot be completely eliminated with the help of creams and serums alone, since they can moisturize and temporarily improve the appearance of the skin, but they do not penetrate deep into the skin – these products will only moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss, but not replenish his disadvantage. “When the skin becomes atonic, flabby and easily creases, and the patient himself complains about the lack of clear facial contours, creases after sleep, which in youth went away in a couple of minutes, can remain on the face for hours. This is an alarming bell – it’s time to seek advice from a cosmetologist. The doctor, if necessary, will prescribe a collagen-stimulating injection therapy, recommend a professional cosmeceutical line and select the appropriate collagen for oral administration,” she says.

It turns out that those plump cheeks that many do not like so much in adolescence eventually become the main goal and task of everyone who wants to look fresh and young. You can pause time, but only by combining different approaches depending on your income level and the time you are willing to devote to it.

Irina Kirienko