Diamonds of January – Style – Kommersant
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Following the haute couture houses, new collections were presented during the Paris Haute Couture Week by the main apologists for jewelry art.
Cartier
The third and final chapter of the Beautes du Monde bestiary, “The Beauties of the World”, is presented, which includes jewelry inspired by representatives of the animal world. For example, the Splendens necklace in white gold with spinel and diamonds is the epitome of red fighting fish, while the Ocelle necklace in platinum with opals, emeralds, diamonds and black lacquer is a jeweler’s version of peacock feathers.
Dior
The creative director of jewelry Victoire de Castellane returns to his favorite motif from the world of haute couture – lace. She first approached him ten years ago at Dear Dior, and then five years later at Dior Dior Dior. The new Dearest Dior collection, shown by de Castellane in a mansion on rue Volneuil, a stone’s throw from Place Vendôme, contains 77 items: necklaces, toi et moi rings, bracelets with Dior Gallon floral edging, like on jackets, hairpins, brooches and a rarity for Victoire – absolutely symmetrical earrings. Each piece is an ode to couture techniques, where rubies, tourmalines, diamonds and multi-coloured sapphires are artfully intertwined with gold and platinum lace (stone fastenings are barely visible), like sequins and rhinestones on precious embroideries of the house.
Chopard
A new tradition for Chopard Co-President and Creative Director Caroline Scheufele is to present Exceptional Stones in January and show the gems and designs that will soon be used to create the Red Carpet line. Here, the focus is not so much on the design (jewels with large stones from Carolina, as a rule, look quite classic), but on the carat, rarity and characteristics of sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and Paraiba tourmalines. Highlights of the collection are a massive necklace with a central yellow cushion-cut diamond of more than 100 carats, which Julia Roberts has already worn on the red carpet, and baroque earrings in white and pink “ethical” gold with pink sapphires and diamonds. We will certainly see them soon at social events: from the Oscars to the Cannes Film Festival.
Boucheron
This time around, Boucheron Creative Director Claire Shuang was inspired by the house’s iconic piece, Queen Elizabeth II’s Art Deco double brooch, given to her by her father George VI for her 18th birthday. Hence the name of the collection – Like a Queen, “Like a Queen”. According to Claire, the idea came three years ago: “What I like most about this brooch is its sentimental value. Queen Elizabeth wore it throughout her life.” In the new version, the legendary jewelry is transformed into a cuff bracelet with aquamarines and blue lacquer, clip-on earrings with multi-colored sapphires, brooches with pink tourmalines, transformer rings with diamonds and earrings with emeralds, pearls and rubies.
Louis Vuitton
The second and final chapter of the Spirit collection, celebrating the spirit and character of Louis Vuitton, the creator of the house (the first part of Louis Vuitton was presented last summer in Marrakesh), consists of 30 sets, which, according to the idea of the creative director of the watch and jewelry direction Francesca Amfiteatroff, are divided into four chapters: Destiny ( “Fate”) with rubies, Liberty (“Freedom”) with pavé diamonds repeating the signature checkers, Radiance (“Brightness”) with spessartines and Fantasy (“Fantasy”) with gold chevrons, patented star-cut diamonds and yellow sapphires.
Gucci
The Italian house has unveiled the third chapter of the iconic Hortus Deliciarum (Latin for “Garden of Delights”) collection, which was launched in 2019 by former creative director and big fan of jewelry Alessandro Michele. The chamber presentation took place in the brand’s boutique on Place Vendôme, the main focus was on white gold jewelry: a two-finger ring with citrines and peridots, heart-shaped print rings with multi-colored tourmalines, diamond chandelier earrings and bracelets in the shape of precious fairy-tale animals.
De Beers
The jewelry brand showed the first part of the new Metamorphosis collection, inspired by the wonders of nature and the changing seasons. The main focus is on transforming jewelry and natural colors, where green titanium symbolizes the arrival of spring, blue titanium symbolizes the coldest days of the year, yellow diamonds are summer, white diamonds are winter, and pink and brown diamonds are the first days of autumn.
Piaget
Piaget has unveiled the third and final chapter of the Solstice collection, romantically titled Esta noite e nossa para sempre (“This night will be ours forever”), a story about the glow of the night sky. It includes seven pieces: a necklace set with marquise-cut diamonds and aquamarines, three rings set with diamonds and sapphires, diamond chandelier earrings and two pairs of jewelery watches, one with a bracelet set with diamonds and rubies and a dial studded with diamonds, others with opal dial and bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds.
Cindy Chao
Taiwanese jeweler Cindy Chao returned to Paris (she had to cancel her trip several times due to covid restrictions), where she presented to the public two new pair of cardamom-inspired gem brooches with 80-carat emeralds and multi-colored diamonds and sapphires, garnets, tsavorites and alexandrites.
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