Blurring Boundaries – Style


Futuristic braids with a metallic sheen, gothic chic and retro car - Kommersant Style shares ideas from recent fashion shows.

The main trends of past shows are a mix of bold decisions, where time-tested classics meet the future. This year, beauty teams at fashion brands have embraced nostalgia, reimagining trends that were likely part of someone's childhood and adolescence. Hence the new interpretation of the braid, the return of “doll” beauty, and the intricate design of nails.

Fairytale glamor

The shows featured a lot of pompous accessories and shiny beauty accents - a “cold wave” sprinkled with glitter, a veil on the face, massive flowers on the hair. However, there was something in common in these images, as if the models were heroines of not good fairy tales. “Fairies are beautiful but menacing creatures. So I wanted to convey that dangerous and beautiful thing,” says makeup artist Vincent Oquendo, who worked on the Christian Siriano show. There were interesting ideas in nail art as well. At the Simone Rocha show, the models' nails were a real work of art. Long nails adorned with black beads and crystals cascade like drops from the fingertips for a dramatic look.

The future of Y3K

If Y2K refers to the aesthetics of the 2000s (Paris Hilton-style pouf hairstyle and thin eyebrows), then Y3K is the designers' reflections on the future. There are chrome claw nails, and thin metal stripes on the face, but also references to the same 1990s and noughties with string eyebrows and a contrasting lip contour. In combination with new technologies in nail art with 3D elements, as well as the “smoothing” of avant-garde beauty images with bright accents like yellow shadows, the ideas look fresh.

Accent eyelashes

Reminiscent of theatrical makeup, eyelashes have become the main accent in many looks. The doll ones are from Mains and Harris Reed, the neon pink ones are from Dries van Noten, and the white ones are from Diotima. Makeup artists boldly play with textures, colors and shapes: from graphic and clear lines to playful curves.

Victory quads

The most popular haircut remains the bob in all variations. The shows perfectly demonstrate how different this hairstyle can be. At the L`Agence show, stylist Liz Rome created the models' looks as “modern Parisians” - their hair was curled into delicate curls. The main accent is the elongated bangs. A completely different interpretation of the bob was at the Christian Cowan show. Stylist Lacey Redway calls this variation the "contour bob" because it perfectly sculpts the cheekbones. Redway was inspired by silent film actress Louise Brooks.

Gothic and grunge

Dark lipstick, careless haze on the eyes, lack of blush are symbols of the new beauty rebellion. Grunge textures and casualness combined with a gothic aesthetic give the images a special character. Makeup artists and stylists emphasized the dark but luxurious elements of makeup: rich wine and black shades on the lips, deep shadows, smeared eyeliner and pale skin create a mysterious but attractive look.

Futuristic braids

Weaves have moved from familiar classics to ultra-modern interpretations. Futuristic braids have become one of the main trends, attracting attention with their geometry, unusual textures and bold accessories. Stylists at Chopova Lowena experimented with shape, braiding hair into complex architectural designs. Metallic accessories, Ulla Johnson's interpretation of buns and thread inserts at the Off-White show - this trend pays tribute to the technologies of the future.

Daria Bogomolova



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